Like most GM owners, I've had my share of problems with the Passlock system, both on my Alero and my older Cutlass. Many people have the dealer "fix" it, only to have the same problems return later. My dealer says there is no permanent fix, but after some research, I've found one.
GM Truck Group UI Bulletin #26 describes a method to disable the Passlock system to allow for the installation of a remote starter.The procedure can easily be modified to work for a GM car. Here is a link:http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/bull/bull26.pdf
I also have found an article that explains how Passlock works, which will help in your troubleshooting. You should read this before attempting to fix a Passlock problem. Go here:
The procedure calls for installing a switch in the Passlock circuit that allows you to disable it while the engine is running. The car will interpret this as a failure of the Passlock system, not a theft attempt, and will go into a "fail-enable" mode.The Security light will come on, and stay on, but Passlock will not be active. The car will start with any key that turns the ignition cylinder.
The security light cannot be turned off (but read to the end) while the car is in "fail-enable" mode. If you go to a shop and get all your OBDII codes read, you will have a Passlock failure code. If that code gets cleared, then Passlock will be active again, and you will have to hope you can get the car started one more time, to enable you to flip the switch you installed, and cause it to go into "fail-enable" mode again. DO NOT let anyone clear all your codes after doing this procedure! The GM procedure says that disconnecting the battery will clear the code, but I had it disconnected for 1/2 hour and it didn't cause any problems.
There is another method of bypassing the Passlock system. If you feel comfortable doing a little soldering, it's not very hard, and only takes about an hour (less time than I've spent sitting watching the security light flash!). Go here for the procedure:http://www.automotiveforums.com/t698...k_systems.html
Be patient, the page takes a little time to load.
I just did that today, and it seems to work pretty well so far.
Following the GM bulletin will result in having the security light on all the time. I didn't like that,so I removed the instrument cluster by removing the two screws in the black plastic cover around the gauges. That piece will then pull out. Disconnect the trip odometer button, and set the piece aside.
The cluster comes out by removing the four 7MM screws at the corners. It may look like it will not fit out the hole in the dash, but it will. Unplug the connector, and take the cluster to the bench.
Remove the back of the cluster by prying up all the tabs on the back(not the ones by the gauges). You will have to pull (gently!) the circuit board for the PRNDL lights off a little post to remove it all the way.
The main circuit board can be removed by prying it off its electrical connections. Find the LED for the security light (mine was marked D14). You can break it off with pliers, or unsolder it like I did.
Assemble in reverse order, remembering to put the PRNDL circuit board back on it's post. Now, when you start the car, the security light will never come on.Edited by: Iflylow