Email sent. Your problems do not sound like they are caused by Passlock, however. Sounds more like an ignition switch problem.

 

Thank you for your prompt reply and help!


New problem was fuel pump, which mechanic said is about right considering number of miles on van: around 100,000 miles.


Replaced fuel pump. No problems for 2 weeks AGAIN.


ThenEnginelight lit up!


Code Scan revealed Thermostat/ECT sensor fail and Fuel Pump gas sensor fail. Research revealed cold motor due to thermostat failure can cause Fuel Pumpgas sensor failure. Replaced ECT sensor and thermostat which solved codes.


No problems since! Knock on wood! Thanks again!

 

can anyone tell me what the relearn method is? And also how do I tell if I have a passlock 1 or a passlock 2 system?

 

Reply sent.


Passlock I and II both work the same way, so the resistor method works for both.


The Relearn method is described in the article linked on the original post.

 

OOK has anyone heard of this with the passlock system, I bought the car used and the owner said it needed a starter, it would jsut spin without engaging. I got a new starter from ebay, put it in ran fine drove car to work stopped 5 times shut off car each time started back up each time. Went to leave at end of day would turn over, sputter, backfire then starter would only spin ot engage. I towed car home took out starter put jumer cable on it worked spi and engaged, checked old starter it worked to. Put back in car only spins, both of them spin. I tried the waiting thing 5 tries security light went out still spins. Any help on this? Please email me link to disable it.

 

No need to create two posts about the same problem. BTW, I moved your other post from the New Members section to the Alero section. Welcome!

I don't think you have a Passlock problem. Passlock only prevents the PCM from allowing fuel to the engine. The starter will still turn it over regardless.

 

Please email me this,thanks,Dan. Hunterdank@comcast.net

 

Hello, I hope you or someone else can help me with my '95 Aurora.
Since a few weeks I have the problem that my car will not start anymore when it is too humid or too cold ... or whenever it will not start. I get the message on the BC "Clean Key - wait 3 min" ... but the car starts later (minutes, hours, days ....) with that key without a problem. So I guess that the contacts for the resistor pellet are worn out. Thinking of that, I decided to bridge the contacts like it is described for the passlock problem.
I measured the key, found a matching resistor and now ... I'm standing there looking for the right cables to cut.
Does anyone know or can tell me, which color they have for my car, from which connector at the steering column they come (the big almost square one or the flat shaped one), which gauge they have (22 or 16 ?) etc ... every possible information that could help me, to find the right cables. Please, I love this car and want to drive it
I looked already here, but that is not really helping me ...
http://64.85.6.118/diagrams/diagrams.asp

 

That sounds like a VATS problem, for sure. I would recommend trying a brand new key with the correct resistor pellet before cutting wires. It is probable that the contacts on the key and ignition cylinder are both worn out, and a new key will be wide enough to make contact. Any GM dealership will be able to make you a new key, but I think they cost about $15, and you will need to show them the title to the car or they won't do it.

I had a 95 Cutlass that had the same problem, but mine was fixed by cleaning the key. I also wet the pellet, and inserted and removed it several times to clean the contacts inside the ignition switch.

I think your wires will be 22 gauge, and probably yellow or yellow/black. I will email you a pdf of the 95 cutlass start circuit which may help. Send me a private message with your email address. I was not able to find a wiring diagram for the Aurora.

VATS sends a constant 5 volt signal through the circuit, even when the car is off. I would check each pin of the connectors for 5 volts (between the pin and ground). There may be more than one with 5 volts, but that will narrow down your choices. Once you have found 5 volts, insert the key in the ignition, and measure resistance of that wire on the other side of the connector. When you find one that is close to the resistance of the pellet in the key, thats the wire you want. You will solder the resistors you bought between that wire (probably yellow) and ground (probably black).

Hope this helps.

 

Ok, thank you so far, that helps a lot Especially the 5V thing. I've read a lot on the net, so I was sure that it can only be the passlock/VATS system and therefore for me the safest way to make my car work again was trying to bridge that stupid thing.
I have a little bit experience in cars (I learned to be mechanic back in Germany and learnt on a French brand, which also had/has a lot of electronical issues), so I just wanted to try this ... but then I was a little bit overwhelmed by the amount of cables behind the steering and I just don't want to cut the wrong wire/s ... another thing is that one of the previous owners installed an alarm system and therefore the cables do not really look like they were originally.
From what I understood, when I cut the right cable while the key is in the lock on ignition and the security light is off, the lsystem should go in fail mode and the light should go back on? Is it possible that the cable is light yellow? That's the smallest I've found so far, but now that I know, I will try to measure the 5V before cutting the cable.
Thank you again for your help, and I will send you a private message