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-   -   1990 Cutlass Cruiser won't turn over, won't start (https://oldsmobileforum.com/forum/cutlass-25/1990-cutlass-cruiser-wont-turn-over-wont-start-3719/)

rabbit 07-19-2010 02:45 PM

1990 Cutlass Cruiser won't turn over, won't start
 
I've got a 90 Cutlass Cruiser, 3300, been running fine for a while. Parked it overnight, went to start it the next morning, and nothing. Wouldn't turn over, just click. Had a spare battery, so I switched them out, same thing. Thinking that the spare battery may have been dead, put the original one back in that was working, and tried to jump it. This is where it gets weird. When the cables are connected, they start to get hot to the touch, and I can see some smoke coming out from the handles. Thought it may have been bad cables, so I went out and bought a new set, same thing. Last ditch effort, thinking that because the car ran before, a new battery with a full charge should start it. Nope. Just click, won't turn over. Accessories will turn on when put to accessory, but will not turn on after first attempt to start.

I'm not the most mechanically inclined person, but I can follow a Haynes manual alright, but electrical is over my head. Is there anything I can be looking for physically that may be causing this problem? Going to check the grounds and wires from the starter and alternator to see if there is any loose or bare wires drawing power. Already went through the fuse box when I first bought it because the owner said the battery was slowly being drained, but could be jumped whenever he needed. Found one of the interior accessory lights was drawing power, took the fuse out, never had a dead battery until now.

Hoping it's something simple, could use any ideas you guys have. If there's any other info you need, I can try to answer you. Just want to save myself a huge shop fee if possible. Thanks.

EDIT*** Ran the code reader, only getting code 12, which I believe means the ECM is working. Usually the fault codes follow 12 if I'm not mistaken.

jrsixx 07-19-2010 07:07 PM

You're correct on the code 12. Any possibility you had the cables backwards? The battery may be bad, take it to an autozone and have them test it. or charge the other one and try it. After you get it started, if you have a voltmeter, with the engine running put the voltmeter between the battery posts, reading should be pretty close to 14 volts. If it is, it's charging fine and the first batt was likely the cause, if not I'd suspect the alternator.

rabbit 07-19-2010 11:02 PM

I had bought a new battery, cables were on the right way. Same thing on the first start, accessories turn on, but when trying to start it nothing. Obviously can't test the charge while it's running, but I left the battery connected for a while, tested it with a voltmeter, still holding it's charge. Alternator belt is tight, and all the cables seem fine. Had a friend say it was the solenoid, but thinking that I might change the starter, since it comes with a new solenoid as well. Am going to try to pick one up in the next few days and switch it out, but would love any more input on what to check.

Iflylow 07-20-2010 03:16 PM

The cable smoke thing to me says there is a short to ground somewhere. It takes a lot of current to smoke jumper cables.
My guess is either a bare cable touching ground between the battery and starter solenoid, or an internal short in the starter itself.

AdamSikorski 07-21-2010 06:03 AM

most likely you have a short in your stater solenoid. that is why it wont crank. check to make sure no wires are disconnected, broken or missing insulation. if its not this then it is something in the circuit with the ignition switch. at this point you should bring it to a professional for repair.


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