help please! 1997 cutlass keeps stalling
#1
help please! 1997 cutlass keeps stalling
Hi, my 1997 cutlass (58,000 miles) has been stalling on and off for the past year or so. Every time we come to a stop light, or even a stop sign, the car stalls. It has gotten so bad lately that I can't even drive it for 20 minutes. We have taken it to several mechanics, each time saying they don't know what's wrong. We have replaced the alternator twice, starter, alternator bracket, serpentine belt, several batteries over a short period of time (1 year!!)- none have been the source of the problem. Now, a new mechanic is saying it's the fuel pump, which will cost 600 dollars on top of another 400 which was spent to clean the cylinders. A different mechanic told us the fuel pump was fine, but the crank shaft position censor(?) was bad- this was a few months back. Can anyone tell me what may actually be wrong? Any advice is much appreciated.
#2
Thats a hard question without seeing the car; but I would get a vacum and compression test.(Although those should be fine). Also does it stall just running warmed up in your driveway, if reved and then allowed to idle again. does the check engine light come on? leme know.
#3
Hi, my 1997 cutlass (58,000 miles) has been stalling on and off for the past year or so. Every time we come to a stop light, or even a stop sign, the car stalls. It has gotten so bad lately that I can't even drive it for 20 minutes. We have taken it to several mechanics, each time saying they don't know what's wrong. We have replaced the alternator twice, starter, alternator bracket, serpentine belt, several batteries over a short period of time (1 year!!)- none have been the source of the problem. Now, a new mechanic is saying it's the fuel pump, which will cost 600 dollars on top of another 400 which was spent to clean the cylinders. A different mechanic told us the fuel pump was fine, but the crank shaft position censor(?) was bad- this was a few months back. Can anyone tell me what may actually be wrong? Any advice is much appreciated.
You got some lousy mechanics man....
its not as fuel pump cuz the car is already running and starting...so that pretty much rules out a fuel pump.
CPS (cranshaft position sensor) also not a cause...it will cause the car to BUCK and sputter when running down the road....it merely is a slot cut in the crank pulley and there is a magnet and sensor mounted on the engine block itself....they very RARELY go out.
Have you checked the PCV valve? I know..sounds stupi...but I had one on another vehicle I owned and it would run just fine...till I pushed the clutch and brake in...and the truck would die....over a lousy $4 part....mine LOOKED ok...but was spllit in half.
Follow the KISS method bro.
its not a difficult engine to work on...although them stupid intake gaskets really suck to replace......I had a 96 and did several things like you have described and much much more till mine got wrecked.
Loved my Cutlass enough that I am looking into getting another one
oh and the batteries issues...you need to look for some fusible links (dont remember off hand if there is any but those lil suckers cause all kinds of hell...stupid idea ever invented)
#4
Crank position sensor is the most likely culprit. I had this exact issue with a Toyota Corola that a few mechanics failed to isolate. My mother now has a 1997 Oldsmobile Regency doing same thing, and even though the computer codes dont register the problem, and after several hours of research again, all clues and troubleshooting point to the crank sensor. It just shuts down then retsarts but is gradualy getting worse. It now requires waiting a few minutes before it wll restart. I am going to replace the crank sensor and will report the results.
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chevelle316
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04-18-2013 09:56 PM