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Hey all,
This morning, on my way to work, I was cruising down the highway at about 73MPH, when the transmission down shifted to get up a hill, and all power was lost. As soon as I let it get back down to around 2500RPM's, it was fine, however above 2500RPM's it doesn't want to run. The car slows down, the RPM's jump around between 2500-3000, and you can feel the car get power for a second, then lose power and start slowing down, then regain power around 2500RPM. This is happening in all gears, I don't hear anything out of the ordinary, and as far as I can tell otherwise, everything is fine. The CEL has been on for years (I know, I should get it checked out, but this is my beater car and I didn't care as much). I replaced all the plugs and wires last summer, changed the trans fluid and filter, and haven't had any problems in the 2 years I've owned the car. My buddy said it sounds similar to an ignition coil problem, a fuel delivery problem, or an air intake problem. I'm hoping someone could maybe narrow it down, or tell me something else that could be the problem, and anything I can do to check the various systems that may be responsible... Many thanks in advance! -Jason |
Well, I've found that it only does this once the car is completely warmed up... I'm starting to think catalytic converter...
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If the car has over 100K miles on it, I think catalytic converter. Exactally what's happening to you, happened to me, when I used to have an Oldsmobile Sillouette.
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Well, I changed the cat, and it didn't fix the problem. It now wants to stall out. If I let it sit for 3-5 minutes after stalling, it starts back up and runs fine for 5-10 minutes. Could this be a fuel pump issue? Anyone have any ideas?
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Originally Posted by justiz
Well, I changed the cat, and it didn't fix the problem. It now wants to stall out. If I let it sit for 3-5 minutes after stalling, it starts back up and runs fine for 5-10 minutes. Could this be a fuel pump issue? Anyone have any ideas?
Check your fuel pressure, if you can, to see if you need a pump. Ifyou don't want to check it,just go ahead replace the pump and filter. |
another inexpensive thing to check before replacing some of the more vital parts is the crankshaft sensor. when they start to get weak or go bad, they send a bad signal to the computer. if the computer gets the incorrect signal, it can cause stalling and starting problems. if the engine is warmed up, it uses the signal from the sensor differently, advancing and retarding timing and injector pulses accordingly. i recently replaced mine for about $30, doing all labor myself (which did include pulling the harmonic balancer thru the right side wheel well)
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