72 455 Crankshaft pilot bearing
#1
72 455 Crankshaft pilot bearing
Hello All I'm working with a 1972 455 that came out of a Toronado. The car was an automatic. I'm confused as to if the crank shaft needs to be machined for a pilot bearing or is it ready to go as it is? I have been told yes, but I also have a reman crank that is specifically labeled for a standard trans also for a 455 but the fly wheel end looks different. The one on the left (the reman standard trans crank) has a diamter of approx. 1.7in and a depth of 1.5in. The one on the right (the original 72 auto trans crank) only has a depth of 1in. the the diamter is the same 1.7. So can I put a pilot bearing in the original 72 crank or do I need to run the reman.
Thanks
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#3
Block may need to be machined to fit the z-bar ball stud
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#4
MOST 455 Olds cranks had an auto tranny behind them and consequently there may not have been a hole machined in the rear of the crank for a pilot bushing/bearing. The 455 which is in my Cutlass now was not machined for a pilot bushing, so I had it machined for a Chevy style pilot bushing/bearing. Personally, I prefer a bushing instead of a bearing.
A block cannot be machined for the ball stud for a Z-bar is the boss is not there. SOME (and I don't have enough information to know which ones did or didn't) Olds blocks don't even have the boss for the ball stud. All blocks that I've encountered with the boss were already drilled ond tapped.
By the way, I'm brand new here. I've been searching for a forum specifically for the 73-77 Cutlass, but so far the only one I've found is apparently no longer active (when I try to register, I get a message that the moderater has suspended the forum). So, I guess this is it, at least for now.
I have a FACTORY 5sp 76 Cutlass S that I ordered new. To be able to get the 5sp, it was mandatory to also get the SMALL V8. By about 1987, I had already gone through 3 of the factory style 5spds. I had planned to build a 455 to replace the smaller engine, but I knew I must first find a tranny to survive the 455, so I bought a Richmond to go behind the 455. Haven't touched the Richmond since. When I built and installed the 455 in 88, the car became much more enjoyable. I have just recently pulled and rebuilt the 455 to W30 specs, but with Edelbrock alum heads and intake with W30 style exhaust manifolds (I bought a set of Hooker headers, but they proved to be way to much grief to fight with).
A block cannot be machined for the ball stud for a Z-bar is the boss is not there. SOME (and I don't have enough information to know which ones did or didn't) Olds blocks don't even have the boss for the ball stud. All blocks that I've encountered with the boss were already drilled ond tapped.
By the way, I'm brand new here. I've been searching for a forum specifically for the 73-77 Cutlass, but so far the only one I've found is apparently no longer active (when I try to register, I get a message that the moderater has suspended the forum). So, I guess this is it, at least for now.
I have a FACTORY 5sp 76 Cutlass S that I ordered new. To be able to get the 5sp, it was mandatory to also get the SMALL V8. By about 1987, I had already gone through 3 of the factory style 5spds. I had planned to build a 455 to replace the smaller engine, but I knew I must first find a tranny to survive the 455, so I bought a Richmond to go behind the 455. Haven't touched the Richmond since. When I built and installed the 455 in 88, the car became much more enjoyable. I have just recently pulled and rebuilt the 455 to W30 specs, but with Edelbrock alum heads and intake with W30 style exhaust manifolds (I bought a set of Hooker headers, but they proved to be way to much grief to fight with).
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1972, 442, 455, 7377cutlass, aftermarket, bearing, bearings, bushing, crankshaft, drilling, hole, olds, oldsmobile, pilot, piolet, tops