I have a 1991 98 Regency


I have tested the battery starter and alternator and all are okay.


Heres my problem,Everynight my battery dies and when I wake up my car wont start.It will jump but after it sits thats it it goes dead.Also when I first get the jump my gauge says that my voltage is 14.0


After driving for about 5 minutes I recheck the voltage and its down to 13.2


I dont know what to do


Please help,ITS COLD!!!

 

TO ME THE FIRST STEP TO TAKE IF I HAVE HAD ALL THE FOREMENTIONED PARTS TESTED WOULD BE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE GOING TO BED, THAT WOULD TELL ME THAT WHEN I CONNECTED THE BATTERY IN THE AM AND THE CAR STARTED THE BATTERY WAS NOT THE PROBLEM. THE SECOND STEP I WOULD TAKE WOULD BE WHEN I CONNECTED THE POSITIVE POST LAST AND I SAW A SPARK I WOULD KNOW THAT SOMETHING WAS LEFT ON. EXAMPLE BEING A LIGHT BULB ( TRUNK, GLOVE COMPARTMENT, DOME OR BRAKE LIGHT. FIND A GOOD MECHANIC AND LET HIM SHOW YOU HOW TO USE A TEST LIGHT TO CHECK FOR AN ELECTRICAL DRAW. IF THE BATTERY IS VERY OLD IT PROBABLE IS YOUR PROBLEM. YOU MAY ALSO TAKE THE BATTERY OUT OF ANOTHER VEHICLE AND TRY IT IN YOUR CAR. ( BE CAREFUL FOR FITMENT ) LOTS OF GM CARS WILL INTERCHANGE. GOOD LUCK..

 

If you know how to use a multimeter, set it to measure amperage and connect it between the positive cable and the battery. That will tell you how much current is being drained from the battery even with all lights, radio etc turned off. Refer to your owners manual to find the fuse box, and pull fuses one at a time. When the amperage shown on your multimeter changes, you've founda system that is draining your battery. There may be more than one drain.


Remember that it's normal to have a small drain from some radios or security systems. Those drains are not enough to drain a good battery overnight. You are looking for a big drain.


The voltage drop from 14 to 13.2 sounds normal. As the alternator recharges the battery, the system voltage will drop. As long as your voltage is above 12, your battery is probably getting charged. Be sure to drive 15 or 20 minutes after being jumped to fully charge the battery.


How long does the car have to sit to kill the battery?

 

 

d agree if you can test the current draw with a multimeter that would
tell you how much current is being drawn. that can tell you alot about
what it might be.



did you test the battery with a load test battery tester or a newer
digital tester? an older load tester will not show some kinds of
problems where the newer digital testers will.



a simple way to test it without a digital tester would be to disconnect
the battery and see if it stays up over night with no connection to the
car.



go out after dark and see if you have any lights on like for the mirror map lites.



a good way to do your own alternator check is to disconnect the
alternator leads (one that plugs in) and the bigger one that is the
output. (disconnect the battery first so you dont short something
out.) see if that keeps it from discharging over night. i never
assume that it tests good unless i do the tests myself. i have learned
that sometimes people who test them for us dont know how to run the
test equipment. i dont care if they are in a dealers service area. i
have worked for years in a shop and am amazed how poor service can be
from a large shop.



does that car have a timer for shutting off your inside courtesy
lights? if so i have seen those turn on and off when they should be
shut off.



hope this helps.... martin

 

The easiest and bestway to really test the alternator and battery is take the carto Auto Zone, O' Reileys, Advance, etc, and let them do a load test on the car. They'll do it for free.


I'd look at the battery cables and connections, too. If it looks even a ittle bit flakey, replace it. Especially the grounds. That's where I've found most of my charging problems.


C.J.

 

Had that problem once. Turned out to be the electric fuel pump not turning off.

 

Just got a 94 cutless that was doing the same thing. We connected a amp meter to see what the draw was and it was only.23 thats not much! Right now we dont have a radio in the car, so the compute may need a little power just to mantain memory.





What we did find was bad grounds in 5 places accross the raditor support. We cleaned them up and different things started working again that didnt before. (ign chime,door locks,interior lights, horn) bad grounds could have keep the battery from getting full charge ALL THE TIME. I havent drove the car much yet let ya know how it turns out!

 

PUT A BATTERY DISCONNECT SWITCH

 

instead of adding switches why not just find out whats wrong with the car and fix it not redesign it . respectfully...