Hey thanks rusty! That thread has a lot of good info.


Now, for those following this thread, I removed the front cylinder head and found that (surprise!) the gasket around number 2 cylinder had a crack. Number 2 piston was much cleaner(less carbon)than the adjoining pistons. This, I think, was due to the "cleaning" action of the coolant/steam in that cylinder.


I could clearly see a split/crack in the metal ring of the gasket in about the 10 o''clock position of cylinder 2. So, I feel confident that the source of the leak has been found and verified. Time to clean things up and put new gaskets on. Its tempting to just leave the rear cylinder head in place and save the time and headache of taking that head off. Its much more pain than the front and probably is not a problem. However, since I have torn into this far, would you agree that I should bite the bullet and do the rear head gasket as well?


BTW, I took picture of the front cylinder pistons and head gasket, but I cant seem to get them uploaded at the moment.

 

Yeah i would do the rear head while your there. You will kick yourself in the *** so hard if you don''t change the rear head gasket now because it could go anyday.


Its pretty funny that your car did the exact samething mine did. Same cylinder and samething happen to the gasket, crack in the ring.


Glad the thread helped you out.


I don''t know about uploading. Maybe geta photobucket account and just put up a link.

 

Well, after much struggling with rusty exhaust bolts, Iremoved the rear head. Guess what? Found the head gasket had a crack in the metal ring of cylinder #1 (same end as cylinder #2). So, it looks like the decision to tear into the rear bank was justified, even though it does not look like coolant was leaking into the cylinder...yet. The head gasket was definitely bad.


Looks like alot of cleaning to do then install new gaskets and put everything back together. I bought new head bolts as I read that the old threads get "stretched" and I did not want all of this work to be in vain.


Also, I am keeping the pushrods in proper order, but it looks to me like the intake pushrods are shorter than the exhaust and that is really all you have to keep straight when you put her back together. The torque instructions are a little foreign to me as well. Torque to 37 ft-lbs in prescribed pattern then 1/4 turn to finish it off. I have always torqued head bolt in steps of ft-lbs, never in number of turns...weird. But I will follow the directions. Would rather just have a final torque value.


And, I dont see any "This side up" on the new Felpro head gaskets. But there aremarkings(p/n, etc.)on one side. Wonder if it matters? The old gaskets were clearly marked. At this point, I am going with "markings" side up.


Almost done. Will reportagain when the job iscomplete. Edited by: landar

 

just look to make sure your holes all line up onn the headgaskets

 

Good to hear you changed both gaskets. I don''t remember if it matters which side of the gasket face up or down.

 

Success! The engine is back together and running fine. No more overheating. Whew. One issue was as Rusty mentioned...the fuel rail supply O-ring. I had to buy that at the stealer for $13! Thirteen frickin'''' bucks for a tiny little O-ring! They think alot of their parts. Advance Auto tried tosell mesome kind of fuel injector O-ring kit, but it was a joke and would never work. Just beware of that.


And Rusty, you were right-on about the head gasket. Thanks also to smdepew for guidance. It sure was nice to have some feedback and support! Salute.[img]smileys/smiley20.gif[/img] Landar over and out!Edited by: landar

 

Good to hear man. Probably wasn''t as hard as you thought it was going to be. And you just saved yourself around a $1000 from having a stealership do it.


Glad we could help you get er fixed. Good job and thats what we are hear for, to help people out.

 

yeah good work. Head gaskets aren''t too bad and now you can say it''s one more thing you know how to do