OK - thanks.


My fear is fixing the intake manifold gaskets and then still coming down to a cracked block. Any way to absolutely determine the block is cracked before doing the intake manifold gaskets?


Noise files coming later today.

 

I''m sure a shop could do some kind of a pressure test on the block but I don''t how you would do that at home.


I did read that you could start the car, let it run for 1 minute. Shut it off and let it sit over night. Open the overflow tank in the morning, if there is pressure there, there is a crack somewhere. But thats just what I read. I don''t how much truth is in that.

 

I realize that I am late to the party here but thought I would weigh in anyway. By way of introduction, I just finished replacing the head gaskets, LIM, UIM gaskets on a 99 Alero 3400 because of an overheating problem.


Rusty, I just got done removing and reinstalling the heads and I dont know why you say the lifters are in the heads. They sure looked to me like they were in the block (valley area). Maybe the 2000 is different?


As for the oil pressue being higher than the coolant pressure, that is correct. However, in the LIM area, such as the block valley where the lifters are, the oil pressure is nil because the oil is not necessary pressurized in that area. It is routed back thru the LIM valley but only as a return "drip".


I dont believe that there is a sure-fire way to determine if it is a cracked block without tearing it all down and magnafluxing for a crack.


A couple of questions for Mcuhan...Are you SURE there is oil in the coolant? If so, how much? Can you drain and flush the coolant and check again to see if it fills with oil? Is it possible that it is some other kind of contaminant?


Here is the some general advice. Always look for the least catastrophic things first. It could be a cracked block(catastrophic) but it might be the LIM gaskets even though replaced recently. I can see the oil slowly mixing with the coolant over time. I would also think you would see contaminated oil in the pan.


Finally, its gotta be colder than a witch''s you-know-what in Minnesota. Hope you have a heated garage to work in! Sure wish we were with Rusty in AZ enjoying a good beer [img]smileys/smiley2.gif[/img]

 

Yes you are right about the lifters. For some reason I was thinking about the rocker arms but keep saying lifter. I''m glad you caught that, thanks.

 

My long johns can only keep me so warm in an unheated garage so the project is slow moving for now. Thanks for the input landar.


There is indeed oil in the coolant resevoir. When I removed the radiator, that drained a lot of coolant but I haven''t done a flush yet. From the looks of it, it seems the rear part of the coolant resevoir didn''t drain and that''s where the oil was. (directly under the fill cap area). And that oil is still in the coolant resevoir.


At the most recent oil change, didn''t look like there were any contaminants in there and the oil on the dipstick looks good.

 

So, no coolant in the oil, yet oil in the reservoir.


I would take off the reservoir tank and clean it thoroughly. Then reinstall, fill and drive, checking carefully for new contaminants. Try to get a feel for how fast the contaminant is getting into the coolant tank.


Second question: Are youSURE it is engine oil and not tranny fluid? Is it a film that you are seeing orlarge quantities? Is the engine oil disappearing fairly fast? (course that could be the other leaks).


As for the noise. Get a stethoscope (a Walgreens model will do) and place a nail in one end. You can get a good idea of where the noise is coming from. After putting my engine back together, I had no lifter noise. However, after a few hundred miles, several lifters needed re-adjusting. Hope its that simple. Dont discount a noisy fuel injector. In any case, get a stethoscope on it.


Also, a Reddy heater is nice in a normally unheated garage. Thats what I used.

 

Any updates on this?


And bump to keep a good thread above the SPAM!

 

Yeah, I am in suspense here![img]smileys/smiley4.gif[/img]