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front end noise with abs/trac/serv. light

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  #1  
Old 12-18-2007, 07:44 PM
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&lt; src="http://www.google-analytics.com/urchin.js" =text/&gt; </>I've been having a similar problem as with most people that have my car on here. It's an 2001 v6 alero. Not only do the abs/trac off/service vehicle soon lights come on and the antilocks work at weird times, but I've had a rumblin grinding noise coming from the wheels. It sounds like what big tires on a truck make when they get going. It has not affected the driving of the car.


The sound is as loud as the engine or more when I get up to speed. It sounds like its coming from the left side so I assumed the bearing and sensor were bad. Changed thatbearing and still had the noise. So I next replaced the left half-shaft but that didn't fix it either. And now I still am getting the lights on. I was thinking about changing the right bearing. I still have the old one from the left and considered trying that on the right but it might be better to get a new one.


Is it possible the sound istransfering from the right one to the left side? It's very noticably noisey. Any ideas?


(Also the lights have been coming for quite some time before the noise started.)&lt; =text/&gt; _uacct = "UA-939292-46"; urchinTracker(); </>&lt; src="http://www.google-analytics.com/urchin.js" =text/&gt; </>&lt; =text/&gt; _uacct = "UA-939292-46"; urchinTracker(); </>
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Old 12-18-2007, 09:12 PM
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As you have probably read, the ABS/Traction Control system uses input from the wheel speed sensors, which are built into the hub. When a sensor goes bad, the ABS/Trac lights come on, and those systems are disabled. It may also turn on the service vehicle light. There may or may not be noticeable noise from that bearing at that point.


I would get the vehicle scanned with a Tech II. Your dealer will have one. That scanner can tell you which (if any) speed sensor is causeing your ABS/Trac lights, and the service vehicle light. I would not reuse the left side bearing, since it probably was damaged in removal. Don't just throw parts at the problem, the $80 diagnostic fee will be worth it. You may also find a local mechanic who has a scanner that can real all GM codes, who may be cheaper than the dealer.
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Old 12-19-2007, 08:57 AM
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If it is a speed sensor in the hub how much does that cost for repair?< src="http://www.google-analytics.com/urchin.js" ="text/"></>< ="text/">_uacct = "UA-939292-46";
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Old 12-19-2007, 04:26 PM
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a friend just had that done and it cost her over 200.they had to replace the whole hub.
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Old 12-20-2007, 09:59 AM
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The speed sensor is built into the hub and cannot be removed or repaired separately. You would have to buy a new hub. Do some searching around before choosing which brand to buy, some last much longer than others.

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Old 12-20-2007, 07:07 PM
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Idid try using thecomputer that autozone has. (don't know if thats a tech II) It didn't show anything, even after the lights came on. I tried taking the front end off the ground, driving it to spin the tires and listening but I couldn't hear anything. That was after installing the new left bearing. Tried spinning them by hand in neutral too but still nothing. It seems to only make the sound when the weight of the car is on the tires.


Does that make sense? Is it easy to believe that both sensors and bearings went out at the same time?
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  #7  
Old 12-20-2007, 09:22 PM
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Autozone does not have a Tech II scanner. They cost upwards of $3000, and I have not seen one outside a GM dealership, although I have heard of some bigger mechanics shops having them. Any scanner that has the ability to read all GM codes, including ABS codes, should be able to tell you which hub is bad, if that is the problem.


A bad hub/sensor may not make noise with no weight on it, as you found out. Did you try grabbing the top and bottom of the tire, and rocking it? Sometimes a bad hub will have a little play, but not always.


As for the sensor problem, another common cause of the ABS/Trac lights is the connector or wiring harness going to the hubs. There should be only one wire bundle, with two wires in it, going to each hub. Unplug the connector at the hub and look for corrosion, water, dust...then trace the wire back as far as you can, paying special attention to anywhere it bends or goes near suspension or steering components. These wire bundles are known to break, which will cause the ABS light.
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  #8  
Old 01-16-2008, 06:37 PM
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Alright, I've changed both front bearings and my lights never came on again for about a week. Now they are coming on everytime I drive again. I checked the connectors when I changed them and they looked ok. Is it possible one of the rear are going out? Is there something else that could cause this problem?
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  #9  
Old 01-17-2008, 02:24 PM
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The rear hubs have sensors also, just like the fronts. You need to get the car scanned to help narrow down what's going on. Post the codes here when you get them.
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  #10  
Old 01-22-2008, 09:08 AM
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&lt; src="http://www.google-analytics.com/urchin.js" =text/&gt; </>Thanks for your help. I really don't want to put anymore money into my car now. I'm pretty far in debt already. I had the window break on me too. I was thinking about just pulling the fuse to the abs. I don't need it and I'd rather have just regular brakes. Do you think it's safe to do that? Is there anything else tied into the abs system that is bad to lose if I pull the fuse? &lt; =text/&gt; _uacct = "UA-939292-46"; urchinTracker(); </>
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