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Originally Posted by rustyballs_69
(Post 6608)
Well know that I reread your first post where you said the humming gets loader the faster you go, that sounds like a wheel bearing. Does it make a gringing noise when your turing one way or the other? I was thinking it could be the strut plate bearing or maybe a broken spring but they wouldn't make that type of sound when you speed up. Does your ABS, TRAC, and Service Engine Soon lights come on?
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I got some info for you. Give me a minute to upload the pics.
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I don't know if you have bought the new bearing or not, if not make sure its either a Timken or SKF. They may cost a little more but they are worth it. Advanced Auto only carries no named Chinese ones. Dont bother with them. O'Reily's/Murray's carries SKF bearings.
The new bearing should come with a new axle nut and the revised torque specs. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...69/axlenut.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...xlenutinfo.jpg Also GM used two different axle nuts. One looks like a regular axle lock nut and the other is a nut with a sleeve looking thing over the nut. I'm not sure what years had which nut but the nut with the sleeve is 35mm. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...difference.jpg Pictures courtesy of Ryan from Ohio from aleromod.com |
Originally Posted by wutagoalie
(Post 6629)
No, for some reason the ABS,Trac and service engine lights have not come on. I am hoping the last time i took the car to a garage to replace one of the bearings, they didnt disconnect anything. Is that possible?
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Perfect, thanks again, i have not purchased the bearing yet. i will try and find a timken or skf, problem is, i am in Ontario Canada. I guess i can try Napa auto parts, that might be my best bet! I checked at our local Canadian tire store. They had 2 options for me and the premium bearing was on sale for $129.99 not sure the name brand though, they just said "premium".
Thats a huge difference from 173 ft lbs to the 248ft lbs. How long should this take to change the bearing? |
I would say around 3 hours. Thats taking your time and cleaning everything up. Make sure all the threads on bolts and the threads on the axle are clean. I would also get a medium thread locker. Don't forget to get the little grease packs for the slide pins like Iflylow mentioned. If you need all the torque specs for the rest of the bolts let me know.
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Originally Posted by rustyballs_69
(Post 6642)
I would say around 3 hours. Thats taking your time and cleaning everything up. Make sure all the threads on bolts and the threads on the axle are clean. I would also get a medium thread locker. Don't forget to get the little grease packs for the slide pins like Iflylow mentioned. If you need all the torque specs for the rest of the bolts let me know.
what happens if i remove the old bearing and hub assembly and it seems fine, can i put it back on? still not sure how to test it to see if it needs replacement. the only thing i know how to do it wiggle the rim back and forth to see if there is any play, other than that???? Thanks Rusty |
I don't think you need the thread lock on the axle nut because it is a lock nut, its kinda oval shaped. I would use the thread lock on the caliper bracket bolts and the bolts that hold the caliper, and you don't need much, I put enough on the bolt so it goes around the bolt on two or three threads. I would clean all the bolt threads with a wire brush first though.
For the grease for the slide pins I would use the little packs of grease, they are really cheap and its made for the caliper slide pins. Not that you couldn't use another grease, but if you use the stuff that was made for the job it will probably last longer. This is the stuff I picked up today: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...9/DSCN1349.jpg I would say give the wheel bearing a real good look over after you take it off. The back side has a seal that holds the grease in, if that seal looks damaged its pretty much junk. Hold the bearing from the part that sits in the steering knuckle and spin the hub part. If you feel anything other than it turning smoothly its on its way out. |
I changed my front rotors and pads today and took a few pictures.
New rotors: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...9/DSCN1348.jpg New pads: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...9/DSCN1350.jpg Cleaned up bolts and caliper bracket: By the way the caliper bracket bolts are 13mm. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...9/DSCN1351.jpg This is where the slide pin slides in the caliper bracket. I cleaned the old grease out with brake cleaner and Q-tips. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...9/DSCN1352.jpg The hub with no brake hardware: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...9/DSCN1353.jpg Top view of the hub: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...9/DSCN1354.jpg I quit taking pictures because it was starting to get dark and I still had the driver side to do. |
Thanks those pictures were great. So if i take off both of the hub assembly's, to test them and give them a spin. is it ok to put the ok one back on?
No lock tight on the axle nut, but what about the 3 bolts that hold the hub?? by chance, what is the torque specs on those three bolts that hold the hub? i will check the paperwork |
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