are there inputs on the back of the factory player?


Any suggestions on ripping apart and installation? I'm installing an infinity basslink 10" in the trunk.

 

Well, got to take'er out to find out. Unless you have theowner's manuelfor the car.. No matter what thoughunless the vehicle is newer than say2000, it most likely does not. Figure to install anything you would need to remove the unit anyhow at some point.


Plus, on a realistic note, all installations unless done by someone with experience(yourself in time), will requireyourride to be music-less for even just a short time frame. I know, it does suck, but defenitely helps you to keep focus and complete the task. As well as learning first hand knowledge of mobile audio installation and planning,to be carried on to future projects!


Good Luck.

 

thanks for the info.. i actually have everything installed now, thanks to a buddy who hooked me up with all the wires. I bought an RCA converter through Best Buy and had final installations installed, (bass **** wires ran etc, for fear of breaking something)


The sub sounds great.. with the trunk cracked open, or open.. as soon as i shut it.. the sound inside the car grows dim. It's the weirdest thing! When the trunks open it's way louder in the car, than when it's shut.. I know it's insulated well, but any suggestions to get more airflow? Should I drill holes in the trunk or what lol!

 

What kind (ported or sealed)and size (cubic ft.)box is this 10" in..? Plus is the box poly-filled, though this is less likely, unless you requested or did it yourself.


Amount of airflow possible in, and through, the trunkwill make a difference, but more so for sound quality...


Also was a line driver used?, or is the amp running off the signal strength provided by the stock head unit..??


The second question is more so speculation at this point. I'm curious more about the box type and size...

 

thanks for responding, you response is much appreciated..


here's a link to a basslink, and what it looks like.http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/p.../hot_news.aspx


It's a 10" driver, and 10" passive radiator sub/amp combo. It's hooked up to an RCA conversion kit(beings that I do want to keep the factory feel and basically "stealth" this upgrade), and powered just like it should be. (i've also ran the little bass **** to thefronton the left side, and mounted it into that little useless cubby compartment, which fits perfectly)You see the only thing restricting the full sound at this point is the airflow in the trunk. I believe the Auroras trunk is a little too insulated for the interior of the car's concern. I'm trying to find a way to basically simulate having the trunk open without actually doing so.. the only thing I can think of is to drill holes in the trunk lol. I guess i'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem, and what their solution is. The sub and setup sounds very very good when the trunk is popped open even the slightest bit.. almost a 50% "thump" increase.

 

This type of integrated technology, which I agree suits your personal needs well, is fairly new to me. The enclosure is indeed "ported", as the term radiated compares in meaning. Lack of needing a line driver is accounted for by the capability of the built in amp to accept such low level inputs (nice feature). Basically this unit can and is intended to be compatable with any factoryOR post production head unit, along with multiple means ofacceptanceregarding signal transfer.


Positioning in the trunk can make a bit of difference.Not that you haven't perhaps triedmoving the unit aroundalready. I'm sure you have, but best placement is typically just behind theback seat facing the rear of the car..


You do and have had a good point being this concern for opening the trunk to allow air flow (& sound)into the cabin of the vehicle. Ifyour rear seat has an arm rest (that most likely folds up into the seat itself), there will be a"wall" space there that can be opened up and trimmedto look proper. All while keeping the install stealth by means of just folding the arm rest back into position when not in use..Most of my cars, especially the Cutlass', have had rear seats that fold entirely down. Though I did own a Pontiac Bonneville at one pointwhich left me with a similar situation as your car now...


The solution was an open space between the left and right halves of theback of the rear bench, just behind this folding arm rest I speak of..


The only other option I would think is reasonable is to lookat any space available between thespeakers on your rear deckto puncturethrough into your trunk. I suggest seeing what you can do with the rear seat arm rest first. I hope your model vehicle has one!


Happy hunting, best of luck to you...

 

Thank you for the advice! I'll give a few things a whirl and see what results come out of it. I think alsoagree, if there's an additional opening from the trunk to the cabin interior will create a "carb" like effect as in a beer bottle bong, and or.. ehm, youget the idea.I think thatshould make a difference. I'll post results in a few days.(I'll have more time whennot watching football! [img]smileys/smiley8.gif[/img])

 

one other thing you might try is to find a vented trunk seal. I''m thinking of doing the same for my intrigue as I have the same dilema as you.

 

Unfortunately due to the feared track record of the Basslink solution, my sound setup also took the plunge less than a year after it was installed. I ordered it from a store on Amazon, had thrown away the box/reciept.. so now I have a huge paper weight sitting in my trunk. It really makes me sad, as theirKappaperfect 10''s and 12''s were impressive to my ears back in the day... so I figured i''d give Infinity the benefit of the doubt and hope others were just installing it improperly. Nope, it''s fried and i''m out $250. I thought about just doing the external amp solution and getting it working again, but i''m just too pissed to even take a look at it. Good luck guy with the Intrigue, I just hope you don''t have a Basslink setup.. and if so, think about selling it ASAP.