New to this forum, so I apologize if this has already been addressed. I have a 1992 cutlass supreme. Loaned to some relatives for awhile. Started running really rough. Then wouldn't start. Will turn over, but not start up. Doesn't have spark and not sure where to go from here. Any help would be appreciated. thanks.

 

I'd check the coil packs. If it's not getting any spark it could be that. Or it could be the ICM fuse if your not getting any spark across the entire engine.

What engine do you have the 3.1 or the 3.4l?

 

Thanks for the reply. It's the 3.1. Are the coil packs the unit that has all 6 spark plug wires connected to it? How would you check to see if its the coil packs? Can I just remove it and take it into Autozone?

 

Yeah it it's unit where all the spark plug wires connect. I'm sure Autozone would be able to tell you if it's bad or not. I don't see why not. They test a lot of other parts.

 

AZ can't check coils, but the flat thing that those coils attach to is the ignition module. That can be checked, at least at Advance Auto, it can. Are all coils not firing or only certain ones?

 

I am here to learn.Thanks for sharing.

 

keep this in mind if you decide to pull the coils off the module. They have a heat-dispersing relationship as well. The module should be attached to a heat sink. Between the two is thermal grease. When you separate the heat sink from the module, you'll need to make sure to keep both surfaces clean and try to replace the thermal grease if possible. You can get this stuff from any computer repair business or maybe even Radio Shack. Also, be sure to use dielectric grease on the spark plug wires where they connect to the coils and spark plugs. This will keep the wires from sticking and also lock out moisture. You should also put a dab on the connector to the module.
Let us know what you do and find out!

 

Thanks for all the info. I might get this thing running yet!

This is what ive discovered so far: I inplugged the two wires going to the crank sensor and tested the ohms, which didnt show any continuity, so i replaced the crank sensor last night--which was a pain. The car actually started up, but ran really rough. It backfired a few times, then quit. I checked the sensor i nstalled and it looks like it didnt go in all the way? The metal tab--the part that curls over, is hitting the top of the part its supposed to go over--like they didnt make it long enough. Could that be the problem if its not sitting flush against the block? I checked for spark on only a couple of plugs and theyre showing spark now. I read something about adjusting the timing after installing the crank sensor. Maybe thats the problem?

 

Forgot to mention. Car will still crank and put out spark now, but wont start again.

Old crank sensor only had a flat plastic piece--that the bolt went through-- that set flush with the block.

 

I don't think that car has adjustable base timing because it doesn't have a distributor.